There are so many wonderful places to visit in Italy that Bologna may not be on your radar; however, it is truly a gem. Bologna is nicknamed “La Grassa” (the fat) because it is famous for its food. We’ve had some of the best meals of our lives there – and, if you’re a foodie – it’s a must. Specifically, its known for lasagna bolognese. Lasagna bolognese is primarily meat-based and the only cheese that is used in it is parmigiano reggiano. In addition to the meat sauce and cheese, a creamy bechamel sauce makes it special and not to be missed. I plan to post my lasagna bolognese recipe soon, but I must warn you it is a labor of love.
If I had to choose where to stay, I would pick a hotel as close to the Piazza Maggiore as possible. We’ve stayed at the NH Bologna de la Gare several times and I highly recommend it. If money is no object, I would also recommend I Portici. Even if you don’t stay at I Portici, pop in for a cappuccino or lunch on their terrace. You won’t regret it.
Popular things to do and see in Bologna:
- If you’re staying at the NH, stroll down Via Independenza to visit the Piazza Maggiore. Pass by the Neptune Fountain (great photo op) and then stop for a drink at Bar Vittorio Emanuele. There are often street performers and musicians on the piazza. If not, the people watching is fantastic. Last time we were there, there was even a graduation ceremony. The University of Bologna, founded in 1088, happens to be the oldest university in the world that has been in continuous operation.
- The Basilica di San Petronio is also on the piazza. It’s enormous and many people ask why it is “unfinished” (the bottom half is marble and the top half is unadorned). According to legend, work was halted in order to prevent it from outshining St. Peter’s in Vatican City.
- Nearby you’ll find the Garisenda and Asinelli Towers. I’ve climbed the Asinelli (nearly 500 steps), but in recent years they’ve closed it as its neighbor, the Garisenda is leaning a bit too precariously.
- My favorite place to visit is the Quadrilatero, which dates back to the middle ages. It’s a jumble of narrow streets dotted with shops and restaurants.
- For a unique experience, stop in the Biblioteca Salaborsa (public library) nearby the Neptune Fountain to catwalk over the remains of an ancient Roman city underneath.
Where to eat:
First, Bologna has far too many wonderful restaurants to mention. If you visit, in addition to the previously mentioned lasagna, be sure to order pizza, tortelloni, and tortellini at some point. Below are just a few of our favorites.
- For an inexpensive dinner (and the best pizza I’ve ever had), go to Il Veliero. Years ago, we nicknamed it the Crusty Crab because it resembles a ship. Anyone familiar with Sponge Bob will understand the name.
- Il Tartufo will always be my favorite restaurant in Bologna. The owners are so friendly and the risotto is presented to you and served from a large wheel of parmigiano reggiano on a rolling cart. If you are a truffle fan, they are very generous with the truffle shavings.
- Ristorante Donatello is a higher end restaurant with fabulous food. You can’t go wrong here and you’ll love the atmosphere with all the pictures on the walls.
- Buca San Petronio is great for lunch or dinner. There are two levels of outdoor dining and, again, everything is delicious.
- If you are seeking a quieter outdoor place to stop for coffee or lunch, I really like Cafe Zanarini. It’s a little pricy and you really have to work to flag down your waiter to pay the bill, but it is so nice to sit outside an enjoy the Italian way of life.
One of my favorite pastimes while in Bologna is clothes shopping (don’t judge me, they know what they are doing and I look for sales) and Bologna does not disappoint. Here are a few of my favorites:
- Stefanel
- Falconeri
- COS
- Twinset
- Sisley
If money is no object, you can also shop along the Galleria Cavour. Armani, Prada and Gucci (among many other high-end brands) can be found here. Alas, I only window shop at Galleria Cavour.
Best,
Lisa
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