I’ve been fortunate to visit Lucca, Italy, more times than I can count, and every time I go I find something more to enjoy about it. We typically stay at the Albergo Celide, a lovely and reasonably priced hotel just outside of the walled city. Start your day with breakfast at the hotel and be sure to ask the kind people at the front desk for any advice you might need. After a long day of exploring, their quiet bar is also a great place to relax and have a drink.
Lucca is known for its intact wall, which has been transformed into a tree-lined 2 1/2 mile walking or biking path. If you’re staying at the Celide, you’ll enter the walled portion of the city along the via Elisa. The street is named after Napoleon Bonaparte’s sister, Elisa, who became Princess of Luca in 1806. You’re first stop should be the piazza dell’ anfiteatro. The former Roman amphitheater has been transformed into an ellipse-shaped piazza with shops and restaurants along the ground floor. The upper levels are apartments from which you’ll often see laundry hung out to dry. It’s a very touristy spot, but if it’s not too busy, stop and have a cappuccino or glass of wine at Old Charlie. There are often performers to enjoy in addition to watching the day tripping tourist groups shuffle through.
My favorite place to stop for coffee, lunch or a glass of wine is Caffe’ Santa Zita. It’s just off of via Fillungo and is located next to the San Frediano Basilica with its amazing 13th century mosaic facade. Sit outside to enjoy the conversations of the locals and tourists as they pass by. The cafe also has lovely sweet treats and delicious sandwiches. You also get a little silver tray of snacks if you aren’t overly hungry. Another good rest stop is the Caffeteria Turandot.
Things to do during your stay:
- Walk or bike the tree-lined wall. From there, you’ll get a peek into several gardens (including the palazzo Pfanner) and cute little plant filled balconies you’ll dream of owning someday.
- Climb the Guinigi Tower. From the top, you’ll get a birds eye view of the piazza Anfiteatro (great photo opp) and a better gauge of the size of the walled city. There is a small garden with trees at the top, which is often used as a symbol of Lucca.
- Stroll by San Michele in Foro, a Roman Catholic basicila church. Look closely as each column in the facade is unique.
- If you’re into climbing, you can also ascend the Torre delle Ore (clock tower).
- Shop along via Fillungo. There is no shortage of clothing, jewelry, leather goods and other must haves as you stroll along. Stop to watch a scarf being made at Zazzi Dallamano or have an apron embroidered with your name at one of the little shops. Be sure to watch the person embroidering. They often sew it upside down and I’m so confused about how they know what they’re doing… but it turns out perfect every time!
Dinner in Italy follows a specific routine. You begin with an antipasti, then select a primi (first course, which is usually a pasta), the secondi (second course) is typically meat or fish/seafood. If you still have room after all of that Italian goodness, make sure to order a dolci (dessert). Everyone knows about tiramisu, but I’m an affogato fan. Affogota is vanilla ice cream or gelato with espresso poured over the top. Sometimes they come separate and you do the pouring of the espresso. It’s so simple, we often make it at home. I’ll be honest, I usually skip the secondi and go straight to dolci after primi. Also, don’t even think about a reservation before 7 p.m. as it just is not acceptable to eat earlier than that.
Where to eat. Lucca has too many wonderful restaurants to mention, but here are a few of our favorites:
- Buca di Sant’Antonio – A lovely high-end restaurant. Tourists are usually ushered to the lower level but don’t be disappointed, it’s equally charming. Everything on the menu is amazing.
- Antica Drogheria is a simple, inexpensive restaurant on Via Elisa that serves great wood-fired pizza, among other wonderful dishes.
- Osteria San Giorgio has a great selection of Tuscan dishes and offers both indoor and outdoor seating.
- Make a reservation for Sunday at Gli Orti, as many other restaurants are closed on Sundays.
If you’re into concerts, the month-long Lucca Summer Festival is held in Piazza Napoleone each summer and you would be amazed at the star studded lineup. In 2024, Lenny Kravitz, Rod Stewart, Sam Smith and Ed Sheeran were just a few of the acts. My husband was fortunate to be in town one year when Elton John was performing.
If you’re looking for day trips from Lucca, you have lots of options. Venice, Florence, Pisa (really not much more than the leaning tower and way too many people taking pictures of “holding it up”, so adjust your expectations), and Cinque Terre are all short train rides away.
Best,
Lisa
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