Sanibel Florida

I’ve loved Sanibel Island for as long as I can remember. I spent a large part of my childhood growing up in Fort Myers, so day trips to the island were a fairly regular occurrence. Once our children were old enough to travel, we started vacationing there in the winter to escape the Wisconsin winters. We either visited for the Christmas holiday or spring break. Since we’ve become empty nesters, we still return often as I can never collect enough sea shells.

In recent years, Sanibel has been hit hard by hurricanes Ian and Milton and is still in recovery mode. However, it still retains its magic for me. The businesses, condos and homes are slowly coming back and it seems everyone greatly appreciates the return to somewhat normalcy.

Of all the places I’ve lived and visited in Florida, Sanibel seems to have the best handle on retaining its original charm. There are no high rises and no fast food chains, which is refreshing. The island doesn’t have any stop and go lights and police officers direct traffic on and off island during the early morning traffic entering the island and late afternoon exodus. My favorite time of day is just after the day trippers leave and the island becomes much more quiet. In fact, it feels as though everyone goes to sleep quite early, perhaps so they can wake up early to shell at low tide.

Sanibel was ahead of its time and instituted strict rules regarding rentals, parking and beach access in the seventies.

• Rentals: Most are weekly, biweekly or monthly with just a few exceptions for shorter stays. The typical turnover day is Saturday, which is always the busiest day at Jerry’s, the on-island grocery store.
• Parking: There is no street parking permitted on the island. In my opinion, this is glorious as it keeps things so much less congested.
• Day trips to the beach: There are just a few public beaches – and when the lots are full – you are out of luck. Probably the easiest public beach to access is at the lighthouse. Just take a left on Periwinkle as soon as you cross over the causeway. By the way, the causeway has a toll and I’m convinced the cost of the toll also helps the island not get too busy.

Where to stay:

Sanibel is often divided by east, mid-island and west. We prefer to stay somewhere between mid-island and the east end. This way, its an easy walk or bike up to Periwinkle where you can grocery shop at Jerry’s or grab a coffee or bite to eat without driving. We try to stay on or near Donax Street.

• If you’re a condo person, you’ll have lots to choose from. Most units rent for a week, with some having a minimum two-week requirement. Sundial is the largest and most popular, but we prefer a smaller, more quiet complex. Our all time favorite is Sanibel Surfside and the owners are all just finishing up their restorations (as of January 2025).
• If you prefer a home, check out the many homes listed on Airbnb.com. Most homes have a one-month minimum requirement. Again, staying mid to east-end keeps you close to everything you’ll need.

What to do:

In addition to spending your days relaxing on the beach, shelling or enjoying the pool or tennis/pickle ball courts, be sure to check out the following.

• The Sunday Farmers Market – This is an amazing market that has a little bit of everything. When we arrive on Saturday, we stop at Jerry’s for the essentials and then hit the Sunday market for fruit, vegetables, pasta, freshly baked bread, cheese, stone crabs (more on this later), crab cakes and even spray to battle the no-see-ums, if they are out in force.
• Sanibel Marina – Check out what is available for dolphin, shelling or sunset cruises or general boat rental. While you’re there, have lunch at Gramma Dot’s.
• Tower Gallery is an art gallery in a historic cottage on Tarpon Bay Road that showcases local talent. When we stopped in, one of the artists was on site and I had the honor of helping him name one of his paintings.
• J.N. Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge – Nearly 70% of Sanibel Island is protected conservation land, which is another reason the island retains its charm. Drive or bike through the refuge for a feast of Florida nature.
• Captiva Island – Drive west to visit the quirky and beautiful sister island to Sanibel, Captiva. By the way, you can’t go to Captiva without stopping at the Mucky Duck. It’s been there forever and if you tell anyone who knows anything about the area that you visited Sanibel, they will ask if you went to the Mucky Duck.
• Billy’s – Rent bikes from Billy’s so you’ll be able to avoid the traffic while exploring much more of the island.

Where to eat:

Since we load up at the farmer’s market, we don’t eat out too often, but here are a few options.

• For an elegant dinner, book a reservation at il Cielo. Everything is great. They used to have a piano player, but he’s recently retired. It’s still a must if you’re in the mood for dressing up and spending a bit.
• Our new favorite go-to is Wickies Lighthouse Restaurant. I can not say enough about this new restaurant. The food is great, the spicy margarita is exceptional, and the daytime/early bird deals are fantastic.
• Doc Fords Rum Bar & Grille has an extensive menu and is reasonably priced. We’ve never had a bad meal.
• Mudbugs Cajun Kitchen is fairly new and is also nice. Get a table on the upper outdoor deck and order some fresh seafood.
• As I mentioned earlier, Gramma Dot’s is super. It’s been around a long time for a reason.
• Cheeburger Cheeburger is a must stop when we visit. It’s a 50s style diner – and, if I’m being honest, it’s slipped a little – but we still have to stop for old time’s sake.
• For breakfast, the Over Easy Cafe is an excellent option.
• During our most recent visit, several people recommended The Shack for ice cream. We didn’t make it there, but given how many people mentioned it, I’m guessing it’s a good stop.
• Not a restaurant, but if you see You’re My Boy Blue beer on the menu or at the store, give it a try. It’s a blueberry wheat ale brewed by Florida Avenue Brewing. My husband liked it so much that we bought blueberries and enjoyed it in our condo.

Random thoughts:

• Stone crabs – I absolutely love stone crab claws and they are only available October 15 – May 1. You can usually buy them at the farmer’s market and sometimes they are also available at Jerry’s. They are already cooked, so just steam them to warm them up and serve them with remoulade, drawn butter or dijon mustard. To make things less messy, I pop them into a gallon sized storage bag and hammer away so everyone can easily access the crab meat without too much trouble. Don’t miss out!
• Shelling – Even if you think you won’t be interested in collecting sea shells, I promise you will catch the shelling fever. I have jars and dishes of shells all over our home that I’ve literally collected over the last 40 years. This last visit I said I wouldn’t collect any. That lasted until I stepped onto the beach.
• The Green Flash – Many people say that there is a “green flash” at sunset. I looked it up and it is an optical phenomenon when a brief green spot appears above the sun at sunset. Whether you experience the green flash or not, grab your beach chairs and your favorite happy hour beverage and enjoy a sunset on the beach.
• Because biking is the preferred mode of travel on the island, brace yourself at every intersection so you don’t run someone over. The bike paths are on every primary road so train yourself to watch for bicyclists from the moment you cross over the causeway. Also, if you’re on a bike – especially on Saturdays when new people arrive – don’t trust that they are watching out for you.

With the increase in hurricane activity and Sanibel being just four feet above sea level, I worry that someday it won’t be there. If you have a chance to visit – and enjoy a sleepier more quaint old Florida atmosphere – this will become your happy place.

Best,

Lisa