We just returned from three nights in Utrecht. Utrecht is less than 40 minutes from Schiphol airport’s train station and is billed as a “less touristy Amsterdam”. We decided to go a bit luxe on this trip, so we booked the Grand Karel V. The hotel is less than half a mile from Utrecht Central station, so an easy walk.
Utrecht is often referred to as a college town and we definitely felt that vibe. There are students/young people everywhere. Plus, like Amsterdam, there are more bikes than people. Literally everyone bikes to get from one place to the next. And the bikers are a bit merciless, so watch out. There was more than one occasion that we had to save each other from an oncoming bicyclist when one of us wasn’t paying attention.
About the Grand Karel V
The hotel was once a 14th century monastery and the grounds are quite beautiful with gardens, foliage, statues, and a fountain/koi pond. There is also both a Michelin star restaurant and a brasserie on site. We had a lovely room on the second floor just above the main reception area and, while we didn’t eat on site, we enjoyed cappuccinos outdoors one early afternoon.
Things to see and do in Utrecht
- If you’re into panoramic views, the Dom Tower is a church tower that you can climb.
- If you’re into shopping, the Hoog Catharijne shopping mall is basically attached to the train station. Speaking of the train station, it is probably the cleanest and most modern train station we’ve ever seen. And the convenience to the historic city center can’t be beat.
- The Oudegracht (old canal) runs through the center of Utrecht. The two-tier canal is lined with restaurants, bars and shops. Be sure to take a canal tour and/or rent a pedal boat or kayak to explore the canal. If you have a small group, you can even charter a boat for a cruise along the canal and some drinks and/or food.
- We were surprised by the number of vintage and resale shops in Utrecht. I’m guessing this goes hand in hand with being a college town.
- Other options for tourists include the DOMunder, St. Martin’s Cathedral and several museums.
Restaurants we enjoyed – Full disclosure, when we visited Utrecht, we had already been traveling in Europe for two weeks, so were craving “American” food (e.g., steak, burgers, pizza), so our restaurant choices reflect that.
- We wanted to find a restaurant on the canal and we lucked out with the Broadway American Steakhouse. The food was amazing (we both had excellent steaks!) and our table was directly on the canal. It was wonderful to enjoy dinner while boats of all sizes trolled past. Plus, there was a large party across the canal at Toque Toque Foodcafe, which was great fun to watch.
- For a great Neapolitan pizza, I highly recommend either of the O’Panuozzo restaurants.
- Champions Sportsbar & Grill served excellent, grilled to order burgers and fries.
- Our favorite breakfast and coffee stop was Bagels & Beans. The bagels here were lighter and softer than American bagels and I really liked them. We also really enjoyed the smaller and very quaint Vanneau Espresso Utrecht.
- Just out the back entrance to our hotel, we stumbled upon our ‘hangout’ for our entire stay in Utrecht. The Springhaver is a cafe and movie theater. It is just our style – a place where locals meet for a light snack or a drink. Every time we visited, we sat outside and people watched. The tables are a bit cramped, but we loved the atmosphere (and the nachos). One afternoon, we especially enjoyed some interesting characters dressed like they were living in the 70s and accompanied by a film crew. I’m guessing they were making a music video or short film.
Should you add Utrecht to your travel destination list? If you’re looking for a less crazy version of Amsterdam, Utrecht is definitely an option. The convenience to Schiphol Airport is a real plus. I’m glad we tried it out, but we still prefer Bruges, Belgium and Lucca, Italy.
Best,
Lisa
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